Meo-Camuzet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2016

Meo-Camuzet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2016

92 - 94)

2021 - 2038

Neal Martin

The 2016 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, matured in 80% new oak, has a tightly wound bouquet with earthy, woodland scents permeating the red fruit. As an aside, I thought there were a few stems here, though Jean-Nicolas assured me there are none. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, vibrant red berry fruit laced with orange zest and tangerine. There is a sense of this being a more linear, correct and conservative Clos Vougeot until it finally fans on the final third. Good potential.

As usual, I tasted down in the cellar of Domaine Méo-Camuzet with proprietor Jean-Nicolas Méo. It was one of my final visits so there seemed little need to run through the minutiae of the growing season for the n'th time. They started the harvest here on 26 September. Jean-Nicolas said that he had just racked some barrels as he is wary of reduction in bottle. He also told me that the 2016s in barrel were more structured than he initially thought. I tasted through the négoçiant wines under Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeur label (see separate entry) and the domaine. The former were more affected by frost since they farm holdings in Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits Saint-Georges, although there are a couple of sweet spots such as the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, a blend of what survived in Les Cras and Les Feusselottes. The domaine wines come across as quite sensual in style, which is perhaps why Jean-Nicolas mentioned their structure since it is not as obvious as elsewhere. You become smitten, even intoxicated by the heady, often floral aromas and lush fruit, not quite noticing that insistent grip until after he wine has departed. A couple of cuvées were too reduced for me to judge, although certainly there are some gorgeous expressions of the vintage from Echézeaux, Vosne-Romanée, Cros Parantoux, Clos Vougeot and Nuits Saint-Georges Les Boudots.

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