Gramercy Cellars The Third Man Columbia Valley 2010

Gramercy Cellars The Third Man Columbia Valley 2010
Wine Advocate #207
Jun 2013
Jeb Dunnuck 92 Drink: 2013 - 2020
Starting off the reds, the 2010 The Third Man is Harrington’s take on a southern Rhone blend and checks in as a blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Syrah that spent 18 months in 10% new French oak. Offering up perfumed, complex aromas of ripe black cherries, smoked meat, licorice and singed herbs, it carries itself beautifully on the palate with a medium-bodied, fresh and overall balanced mouthfeel that leans toward the elegant end of the spectrum. Showing juicy acidity on the finish, it gains in stature with air and should drink nicely for 8-10 years. Drink now-2020.

These top-notch efforts are made by Greg Harrington, with help from assistant winemaker Brandon Moss, and always show the fresher, more edgy and lean side to the region. Normally fermented with varying degrees of whole cluster and aged in neutral oak, they have Old World, classical profiles and will benefit from short-term cellaring. While I’ve been drinking the Rhone blends from this estate for years, this was the first time I’ve been able to taste Greg’s Bordeaux releases. The house style certainly persists and the wines all show firm, concentrated and age-worthy profiles. From a much warmer vintage, Harrington’s 2009s are more voluptuous and textured than the 2010s, yet still play in the same classically styled ball park of the estate. While more approachable today, I think they will have a similar, if not broader, drink window than the 2010s. Time will tell but at the moment, I generally like the 2009s more due to their fruit, yet I still think the tannin quality in the 2010s is better.
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